Clued In Venice – The Concise and Opinionated Guide to the City 2026

 

Grab the new 2026 edition here, in print or ebook.

This is the year. Venice is waiting. Let us take you there.

 

The truth about Christmas Day in Venice – December 2025

   If you had the good taste to choose Venice for your Christmas holiday, then you might be wondering how to spend your time on Thursday, December 25 when all of the city’s sights and restaurants will be closed in observance of Christmas Day.  These folks are really into Christmas and will be with their loved ones on the big day. The few dining rooms that will be open (inside various upscale hotels) are probably booked up already. That means you’ll need to plan ahead…

1)  If you’re staying in a hotel, buy some lovely panini sandwiches from Osteria al Portego, Osteria al Squero, or Osteria alla Bifora the afternoon before, along with some sweet treats and beverages because there’s a good chance that it will be your holiday meal.  2) If you’re staying in an apartment, go to the Rialto market in the days before the holiday and get ready to prepare an at-home feast featuring pasta, prosciutto, olives, Pecorino Romano cheese, and some bubbly Venetian Prosecco.  3) In St. Mark’s Square, Venice’s incredible basilica will celebrate morning Mass around 10am so go early to get a seat.  4) Take a leisurely stroll to the Castello area, all the way down to the grounds of the Biennale park, and revel in how you have it all to yourself.  5) Be out and about after the sunset too; slowly but surely other folks will begin to fill Piazza San Marco.  Note that Caffè Florian is often open on the holiday.  On December 26, almost everything in Venice will re-open. Merry Christmas!

 

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Autumn in Venice – November 2025

    If you’ll be one of the clever travelers coming to Venice before the onslaught of visitors who descend upon it for New Year’s, then good for you… you’ll get a taste of what this incredible place is like for its local residents. Why not snag a table at the fabulous Ristorante Alle Corone or enjoy creative mixology at Il Mercante? See fabulous art without the crowds at the Accademia Gallery. All of these will make for fantastic memories, and before you go we hope you’ll grab a copy of Clued In Venice.  It has info not found in other guides which is exactly why it stands apart from the rest! 

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This time of year calls for Osteria La Zucca – October 2025

    Pictured below is the world’s tastiest appetizer.   We state that with complete confidence and can only back it up by saying that when visiting Venice, we literally can’t wait to get to Osteria La Zucca to get us some!  One could argue that it’s one of the reasons to visit Venice in the first place.  What is it?  It’s a savory flan made with pumpkin and then served with salty shreds of ricotta salata, toasted pumpkin seeds, and olive oil. Light, rich, and extremely flavorful, you can only find it at La Zucca. OMG it’s so good. By the way, la zucca means, the pumpkin.

    This cozy restaurant is in the San Polo area and easily reachable on foot by visitors staying near the train station. If your accommodations are more centrally located, then you might want to take a Vaporetto waterbus up the Grand Canal to get there. (The San Stae stop is closest.) From there, use your google map to find it. La Zucca sits right next to a charming little bridge. Their menu offers many unique choices –a refreshing departure from other restaurants in Venice that tend to all serve similar, predictable dishes.  It’s not a fancy place so don’t expect it, and if you prefer to eat vegetarian, you’ll find more offerings here than anywhere else!

   One more clue:  Don’t be thinkin’ that you’re just gonna pop on over there to have dinner… their available reservations fill-up weeks in advance.  You can make a reservation by phone so hurry up and do it.  (Don’t worry, the person on the other line will speak English.) From the US call  011-39-041-524-1570.   

 

 

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Important changes in Venice – Summer 2025

   Our Clued In Venice books (both print and ebook editions) are being updated again to reflect new ticketing changes to two sights in Venice, Italy.  At the famous Doge’s Palace (Palazzo Ducale) visitors can now enter only by way of a special ticket called the St. Mark’s Square Museums Pass… or by booking a special guided tour of the palace.  [Note that the guided tours are not necessarily inclusive of the entire place but one can usually explore it after the tour has ended.] The Correr Museum (Museo Correr) is included on this pass as well.  By the way, changes in Venice are the norm and we endeavor the keep up with all the visitor info by updating our travel books monthly!  —Dean and Andie

 

 

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To go or not to go – August / September 2025 

    [Regarding the acqua alta flooding that has been recently reported in Venice, we are here to tell you that the sea and Venice have always been a loyal [yet argumentative] couple.  There’s even a ceremonial “marriage” between the two that’s held annually for the past 1020 years now! The sea has lately been more of a domineering wife than a submissive one, but the occasional flooding is normal when it occurs in a more minor way.

Visitors dreaming of a trip to Venice have reason to be concerned a bit, but in our opinion should not stay away. The flooding (when it happens) recedes in just a few hours and things go back to an eerily normal state very quickly. The good news is that there is less precipitation this time of year (always a factor.)  Venice is as beautiful as ever right now and you deserve to experience it. There is simply no other city in the world like it.

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In Focus: Hotel Ala – July 2025

   One of our favorite hotels in Venice is Hotel Ala. Located in a central position perfect for exploring all that Venice has to offer, it’s just a short, gorgeous walk to Piazza San Marco. What more could anyone ask for? Since completing a recent expansion of its former 12th-century palazzo, there are now even more rooms to choose from. We still prefer the antique ones in the main building that boast large shuttered windows that open up to a charming canal. In the afternoons, you will hear gondoliers singing right outside your room. It’s positively transporting. They have an excellent breakfast buffet, a super nice cocktail lounge, and have a guest clientele of age sixteen and older only. 

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Update: The T-Fondaco department store has closed – May 2025

   After what seemed to be just a few years, Venice’s ultra glamorous department store T Fondaco. has quietly announced its closure as of May 1, 2025. This was evidently due to a restructuring of its parent company. We will miss it, and hope that another business can move into this amazing space very soon. Our Clued In Venice books (both print and ebook editions) are being updated this month to reflect the change. We regret any inconvenience this has caused. —Dean and Andie

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NEW INFO regarding fees/permission to enter Venice – starting April 2025

• The entry fee of at least €5 per person will begin solidly in April 2025.  This fee is for day-trippers only, folks who have come for a daytime visit without reserved accommodations in the municipal Venice area.
• The fee will need to be paid ahead online for each person over the age of fourteen in your party and will result in a special QR Code delivered to your smart device.
• Hotels and apartment rentals during the trail dates will now have an exemption QR Code for free, (because a tourist tax is already in place for accommodations.)
• There will not be gates, turnstiles, barriers or queues to control arriving visitors. Instead, simple random checks on tourists will be carried out by officials. Your paid (or exempt) QR code will need to be immediately presented in the event of an inspection.  If you fail the inspection you will be fined.
• Children under age fifteen are exempt from paying any entry fee.
• Tour bus passengers who have paid the ZTL bus tax will also be exempt from any entry fee.

The mandatory Venice entry fee and visitor registration will be enforced on these days during the high season of 2025:

April 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30  
May 1, 2, 3, 4, 9, 10, 11, 16, 17, 18, 23, 24, 25, 30, 31  
June 1, 2, 6, 7, 8, 13, 14, 15, 20, 21, 22, 27, 28, 29  
July 4, 5, 6, 11, 12, 13, 18, 19, 20, 25, 26, 27

     Visitors who can prove they have booked a hotel room or rental apartment within the general Venice municipality for at least one night are exempt from payment, but not from registration.  NOTE: by April, a system should be in place so that your overnight accommodation proprietor can register you and send the special exemption QR code to you by email before your arrival.

For those who are only coming for a daytime visit, you’ll need to register yourself at this official dedicated website which also has all the FAQ’s:  cda.ve.it

 The fee will be €5 euros per persons fifteen years and older, provided the fee is paid at least four days prior to the arrival; otherwise, the rate will increase to €10 per person.  The website will issue a QR code to be presented in the event of a check by officials, so keep it handy in your smart phone while you are in Venice.

-This QR code proving your payment of the entry fee will be needed between the hours of 8:30am – 4pm only, on the above dates.

Please share this important new information because almost all of the posts about it on Google are old and wildly incorrect. We are also updating our Clued In Venice book to reflect this new information!

 

 

 

Announcement – March 2025

    The fee and visa-waiver permission (ETIAS) for Americans and Canadians to travel to the European Union has been officially postponed until late-2026 or early-2027… yet another reason to travel this year! We are currently updating the information in our travel books to reflect this change. Visit the link below for more info:

https://travel-europe.europa.eu/etias_en

 

 

Spring is the best season for glass shopping in Murano– March 2025

The island of Murano is located just north of Venice, about one third of the way back to the Marco Polo International Airport. (This is in the opposite direction from Venice’s famous piazza and lagoon.)  This small island community is one of three that can be reached by the vaporetto waterbus and, being the closest, was chosen to house the super-hot furnaces which are needed to heat and temper the favorite material of Venetian artisans: glass.

    The reason furnaces were banished from Venice proper was, of course, the threat of fire. Nowadays, all of the major glass design-houses have their showrooms on Murano and in the springtime you might just be invited by your hotel to be taken there for free by way of a private motor boat to see a demonstration of the amazing technique of glass blowing. Should you be suspicious, you ask?  Well, yes and no.

Here’s the deal… if you agree to take the private boat, it will pick you up for free near your hotel and whisk you and your loved ones right to the dock of one of  Murano’s glass workshops and showrooms. You’ll be greeted warmly and will join other visitors to watch a fascinating, but short, demonstration. Afterwards you’ll be invited directly into their showroom (where there’s not a price tag in sight) and be encouraged to browse around. Friendly employees will chat casually and answer your questions and calculate prices if necessary. It’s actually a very pleasant and informative experience. Even so, there are a few pro-tips you should know before you go; after all, Venetians will be Venetians and they have thought everything out already since before you were born. We spell it all out in our Clued In Venice guide book, but lets just say that the motor boat that brought you may not be taking you back to Venice unless you spend a great deal. A medium spender will be given free waterbus tickets for their return, and a low or non-spender will have to pay for the waterbus themselves. Capisci?  Still, its very memorable and scenic and in the springtime the crowds are non-existent. Go ahead; treat your self to a beautiful vase!

 

 

 

Create real Venetian cuisine at a fun workshop – February 2025

   Your visit to Venice will be even more special when you spend a couple of hours in a kitchen with a real Venetian chef.  At the Cesarine Cooking School, you’ll be provided with all the ingredients needed and shown the techniques needed in one of their hands-on classes.  There’s even a workshop where you can make three dishes from scratch: a starter, a main dish and a dessert, and then enjoy eating it along with beverages, wine, and coffee. If you choose a private group class. it’s customizable. They offer many different cooking experiences so book one of them online as soon as you know your travel dates.  All classes come with a cancellation refund.  Buon appetito!

 

 

 

Where to shop the sales – January 2025

    Like many stores in the U.S., Italy puts its best designer items on sale after the holidays. If you’re visiting Venice in January and have the urge to do some shopping (or just want to come home with one really special item) now is the time.  Venice doesn’t really have “streets,” but there are passageways, and the best one for shopping is Calle Larga XXII Marzo, affectionately referred to simply as Venti-due Marzo, which runs east/west from the ornate facade of the San Moisè church.  For those who are unfamiliar with Venice, this means that the best shopping can be found smack-dab in the city center, just west of the Saint Mark’s Square.  This may be helpful to know even if you don’t plan on hitting the boutiques… being aware of this type of location also tells you precisely where a city’s most desirable neighborhood is.  That’s usually where you’ll also find some of the best hotels, and some top-notch wine bars too.

 

 

The truth about Christmas Day in Venice – December 2024

   If you had the good taste to choose Venice for your Christmas holiday then you might be wondering how to spend your time on Wednesday, December 25 when all of the city’s sights and restaurants will be closed in observance of Christmas Day.  These folks are really into Christmas and will be with their loved ones on the big day. The few dining rooms that will be open (inside various upscale hotels) are probably booked up already. That means you’ll need to plan ahead…

1)  If you’re staying in a hotel, buy some lovely panini sandwiches from Osteria al Portego, Osteria al Squero, or Osteria alla Bifora the afternoon before, along with some sweet treats and beverages because there’s a good chance that it will be your holiday meal.  2) If you’re staying in an apartment rental, go to the Rialto market in the days before the holiday and get ready to prepare an at-home feast featuring pasta, prosciutto, olives, Pecorino Romano cheese, and some bubbly Venetian Prosecco.  3) In St. Mark’s Square, Venice’s incredible basilica will celebrate morning Mass at around 10am so go early to get a seat.  4) Take a leisurely stroll to the Castello area, all the way down to the grounds of the Biennale park and revel in how you have it all to yourself.  5) Be out and about after the sunset too; slowly but surely other folks will begin to fill Piazza San Marco.  Note that Caffè Florian is usually open on the holiday. On December 26, almost everything in Venice will re-open. Merry Christmas!

 

 

 

In Focus:  New Year’s Eve Venetian-style

    If you’re one of the lucky ones who’ll be spending New Year’s Eve in Venice then you should start making plans and hotel reservations right now. For us, there is nowhere more magical to herald in the New Year than La Serenissima.  The main square, Piazza San Marco, becomes a crowded area reminiscent of New York’s Times Square but without the bitter cold and strict crowd control. Don’t get us wrong, you’ll have to bundle up for The Big Party as it is called, and come early if you want to snag a good spot for the musical performances and incredible fireworks display over the lagoon. Reserve an early table at one of our recommended restaurants now.  At 11:59pm, the famous bell tower will countdown to midnight with twelve strikes, sending everyone into a happy, romantic, kissing moment as the confetti pours down. Impressive, and free of charge. Feel free to sleep-in on January 1st because most of the city’s museums will be closed.

 

 

 

Venice in the fall means opera and orchestral delights – October 2024

      The city’s infamous opera house, La Fenice is located right in the San Marco neighborhood and has a fantastic season of performances planned for 2024/2025.  Favorites such as Otello and  La Traviata start things off so grab your ticket soon if you will be here in November. There are also some amazing musical performances coming up so check their website calendar to see if any will fit into your itinerary. It will be a magnificent evening that you’ll never forget.

 

 

 

Venice in September – 2024

    We believe there’s almost nothing better than being in Venice in September.  If you have plans to be there, bravo. If not, you can still book your flights and hotel. This month, La Serenissima sees a shift from zany summer tourists to a more sophisticated (but still fun-loving) crowd and boasts several special events. So here it is, your “Venice in September” Need-To-Know:

First, the arts extravaganza known as the Venice Biennale continues on until November so grab a vaporetto waterbus to the Castello section and check it out.  It’s only held every other year so don’t miss it. Second, mid-September will mark the Venetian holy day of the Festival of the Triumph of the Cross with a procession from the Scuola Grande of San Giovanni Evangelista in the San Polo section. Next, you should definitely know about the granddaddy of all historic boat regattas, the Regata Storica, which is hands-down the most colorful Venetian display on water. It will include a very exciting team-gondola race right on the Grand Canal, as well as costumes, food, and musical events. As if all this weren’t enough, early September is also the time of the world famous International Venice Film Festival.  Movie stars, starlets, and movie creators will be there on the red carpets to vie for the esteemed Leon d’Oro (Golden Lion) award for achievement.

 

 

 

In focus: Where to try cicchetti – August 2024

   Venetians love their cicchetti and usually snack on it while drinking their afternoon glass of wine. The ever-changing assortment, made from fresh seasonal ingredients from the land and sea, are simply the Italian version of tapas. We love it for lunch and often head over to Osteria al Squero, a scrumptious, out-of-the-way wine bar featuring both cichetti and panini (small sandwiches.) Sometimes that’s all you need to revive between sights. Located in the lovely Dorsoduro neighborhood, everything they serve is homemade and authentic. It’s also so affordable that the prices may shock you. This wine bar is situated at the end of the canal called Rio di San Trovaso where the lagoon flows between the Guidecca and Venice. You’ll know you’re getting near it when you spot the obviously Alpine-inspired Squero di San Trovaso, a place where Gondolas have been carved by artisan masters for centuries. 

 

 

Our new favorite restaurant in Venice – July 2024

   Before you even head to Venice, be sure to make a dinner reservation at the scrumptious Ristorante Santa Maria Formosa.  The food here is no joke, yet priced fairly and without a lot of pomp and misplaced elegance. Ristorante Formosa is actually relaxed, and diners here can choose to eat inside the centuries-old dining room or outside on the piazza in view of the stunning nearby church. Their offerings change seasonally but our images below show the sesame-crusted cod and the linguine with clams. Don’t miss this place! There is never a reason to have a bad dining experience in Venice, if you know where to go.

 

 

 

Attend a concert in Vivaldi’s own church – June 2024

     Music lovers know all about the composer Antonio Vivaldi.  As Venice’s native son, his music is everywhere here. You can book tickets to a concert in the same church and orphanage where he was a priest and composed much of his music. That makes it an evening of entertainment and history in one. The professional ensemble, I Virtuosi Italiani will be performing there throughout the summer. It’s called Ospedale della Pietà and is located right on Venice’s famous lagoon.  Book tickets ahead for your preferred date here.  Some things just have no language barrier.

 

 

 

Hotel Flora, a Venice gem – May 2024

    If you want to feel like you’re staying in a private Venetian home from yesteryear, book a room at the lovely Hotel Flora. It’s located conveniently in the San Marco sestiere but not too close to the busy piazza.  It has been lovingly preserved and boasts a particular style and polite service that can’t be beat.  Hotel Flora has a charming garden courtyard and offers an authentic, complimentary breakfast. We adore it.

 

 

 

Enjoy the city’s Festa di San Marco on the 25th – April 2024

   Later this month, Venice will be celebrating its Feast of St. Mark which is one of the most important Venetian events of the year. It celebrates the historical transport of St. Mark’s remains from the Holy Land to Venice. Parades, concerts and award ceremonies mark the event. If you will be in the region during this time, don’t miss your chance to be in the piazza!  Flags, processions, a regatta, and a lively spirit of celebrating life will be the highlights.

 

 

 

Searching for Venice’s tiny jazz club – March 2024

    It’s not easy finding anything in Venice, so thank God for Google Maps. That’s precisely how you’ll find the city’s little canal-side jazz joint, one that prides itself on only offering live performances.  The Venice Jazz Club offers music and light fare Thursday through Saturday nights… if they have musicians scheduled. If not, they simply don’t open.  Since it’s located right in the Dorsoduro neighborhood, it’s certainly worth the walk over to see what may –or may not– be going on during your visit.  It’s located near Campo Santa Margherita.

 

 

 

In Focus: Carnevale celebrations – February 2024

    Yes, it’s Carnevale time in Venice!  Beginning on February 3rd and culminating on the 13th (just before the start of Lent) this one promises to be the biggest celebration in years. The 2024 theme is “The Extraordinary Journey of Marco Polo.”  Along with the composer Vivaldi, Polo is one of Venice’s favorite sons; his voyage to China in 1271 is historic, and he even managed to become a confidant of Emperor Kublai Khan.

This year marks the 700th anniversary of Polo’s death. The official website for the event can be found here and may be of some assistance if you will be in Venice during the Carnevale. Attendees of the city’s masked balls can rent period costumes at several locations in the city (noted in the newest edition of our Clued In Venice book) or you can opt to be a part of the activities around you just buy buying a great mask when you get there. Before you head out, make a dinner reservation ahead of time at the scrumptious Ristorante Santa Maria Formosa  -our new favorite.

 

 

 

Plan ahead for the trip of a lifetime  – January 2024

   The more you can plan beforehand, the more memorable your visit to Venice will be. At Clued In Travel Books, we are big believers in having reservations at the restaurants we most desire rather than settling for our second or third choices. Restaurants tend to fill up fast, especially around Valentine’s Day (which has become a global holiday.)  As for the city’s top sights, book most of them ahead too because everyone else will be doing the same; times have definitely changed.  You didn’t come this far only to find the jaw-dropping St. Mark’s Basilica is sold out. Having reservations and tickets brings about the amazing effect of keeping your sight-seeing on track. No flaking out allowed!

If you are the type of traveler who likes to go to an undiscovered city with no plans (just to see where fate takes you) then we say, “Good luck and bless your heart.”  Instead, go ahead and grab one of our travel books and peruse through it to the end. You’ll be shocked at how a place you knew nothing about is suddenly as clear as can be.  It’s almost magical. 

One of our newest fans recently stated, “I thought I would “dog -ear” a few pages to go back and read later, and I simply could not put the book down. I ended up with over half of the pages with a turned down corner!  I am fortunate to have traveled to over 30 countries and have used all of the popular guidebooks; Rick Steves, Frommers, and Lonely Planet… and this one is best of all.” 

 

 

In focus: Visiting the Island of Murano – November 2023

   In our travel book, Clued In Venice, we definitely encourage visitors to go farther afield than other tourists (meaning beyond the Piazza San Marco neighborhood.) Many do, and discover a whole other Venice. But what about getting on a Vaporetto waterbus and actually leaving Venice for another island? Don’t fret, it’s easy –and should be included in your plans especially if you’re staying in Venice for more than a few days.

Murano is quite close to Venice and the voyage from the Cannaregio neighborhood is only about about fifteen minutes.  Once there, have a delicious al fresco lunch at Trattoria Busa alla Torre, visit a glass factory showroom, shop, laugh, take pics, and just revel in being away from the regular crowds.

Note: Take the #12 Vaporetto line from the ‘Fondamenta Nove’ docks just two stops, to Murano’s ‘Faro’ dock.  If the waterbus seems crowded with locals, don’t worry. Most of them will getting off at the first stop in order to visit their deceased relatives on Isola di San Michele! You can also ask your hotel to arrange a private water taxi to take your entire party to Murano for free. Most hotels will be happy to do this.  Just remember that if you do not make a large purchase in one of the glass showrooms then you’ll be taking the Vaporetto back to Venice along with all the other ordinary mortals.  For more tips on visiting Murano, consult our gorgeous new edition of Clued In Venice. 

 

 

 

In focus:  Spaghetti Vongole, a Venetian specialty – October 2023

   If you’ve had spaghetti with clams before, you know how delicious it is. If you haven’t, you’re in for a real treat! This garlicky, lemon scented, buttered noodles with fresh clams is one of Venice’s most popular dishes. It can be found at nearly every restaurant and that should tell you something. There are slightly different interpretations however, and varying portion sizes from those being suitable as a starter to a larger meal, to platefuls that are the meal. We adore it and can never get enough of it. Below from left to right are the spaghetti vongole dishes we sampled last month at Loncanda Montin, Ristorante Santa Maria Formosa, and finally, Ristorante Carpaccio on the lagoon.  (The first two are the winners because they both came with wonderful ambiances and gracious service.)

 

 

 

 

Ca’ Rezzonico has reopened! – July 2023

    This is one of the most beautiful and well-preserved Grand Canal palazzos in Venice.  A visit there has always been a highlight for us and now it’s better than ever.  After a major renovation, visitors are now welcomed back inside to see what it was like to live there in the 1700’s.  Ca’ Rezzonico boasts interiors that are still intact from that period. 

Current editions of our Clued In Venice book reflect that it has reopened but if you have an older book, just know that you should definitely go there and also try to spend a few minutes in the art galleries housed on it upper floors. They’ve even added a lovely café .  

 

 

The other Venice Biennale – June 2023

    Most people know about the famed Venice Biennale festival which presents contemporary works and installations by invited artists. It is named this because it is presented every other year (for decades now.) The next one will open in May of 2024, and on all even-numbered years thereafter. Its home is always the vast greenspace within the Castello neighborhood.  So what happens there in the summertime on the odd-numbered years like 2023? A different Biennale festival takes place, one that in many ways is more interesting…

The Biennale Architettura is a celebration of contemporary architectural styles and applications. The world’s most provocative and celebrated architects all want to exhibit at it but only the invited few get to do so.  It is so expansive that it is actually exhibited at the Arsenale and Forte Maghera as well as the Giardini greenspace!  If you’ll be in Venice now through November 26, snag yourself a ticket.  

 

 

Update – May 2023

   Our brand new Clued In Venice paperback-print book has arrived! Grab a copy today on Amazon.com because we can’t wait for you to see it. It features nearly fifty original images in gorgeous black and white  – the ebook version still has color images.  It’s your choice. Happy travels!

 

The Perk Report – March 2023

   Our readers know that we include a concise but helpful segment in most of our travel books called The Perk Report.  Here is an excerpt from our Clued In Venice book…

You might go looking for that Seattle-based, green mermaid coffee chain you frequent at home but you won’t find it here. Well, not yet. There are several of them that have popped up in Milan and one near Florence, but a coffee culture like the one that exists in Italy means they will never fully be embraced. Never.

Anyway, you won’t miss it if you follow our advice. Venetians have been drinking coffee forever and they know how to do it right. (They were actually the first western Europeans to do so.)

Besides the obvious elegant, historical caffès in Piazza San Marco, there’s really no argument about where to get the tastiest caffeine fix in Venice. Each of these recommended coffee spots are wonderful in their own way. Here’s a quick primer on the terminology:

Caffè (what we call an espresso)

Caffè Latte (an espresso shot with lots of steamed milk and some foam)

Cappuccino (an espresso shot with some milk, and foam on top)

Caffè Doppio (a double shot –a large espresso)

Caffè con Panna (an espresso with cream)

Caffè Americano (an espresso shot that’s been watered down but it’s still strong!)

Macchiato (same as a cappuccino but with much less milk involved)

Marocchino (a cappuccino with cocoa added)

Granita con Panna (frozen coffee with whipped cream)

———

Andie says,   “Remember that whenever you see the letter ‘c’ anywhere near the letter ‘h’ it gets pronounced like an English ‘k’ without exception. That goes for bruschetta too. Say brewsket-ta.”

Dean says,   “If you casually order a latte because you think you’re cool and think you don’t have to say caffè latte then you’ll receive a tall glass of milk. That’s what Italians hear when you say latte.”

 

In focus: Church of Santa Maria dei Miracoli – February 2023

   When other websites are touting where to eat on Valentine’s Day, we’ve opted to send our readers in a different direction by giving a February shout-out to a lesser known sight that’s off the beaten track.  It comes with a quick history lesson though…

Way back in 1470, an iconic painting of the Virgin Mary began to gain a following of believers who thought it miraculous and capable of curing the terminally ill. There’s an eyewitness account that it had the effect of bringing one man back to life after he had spent thirty minutes underwater in the Grand Canal. So revered was this painting that it was decided it needed to be housed in a Holy church worthy of its divine powers. After a decade, enough funds were raised to build a beautiful multi-colored marble church in the new Renaissance style expressly for the purpose of housing this painting.  It was christened “Holy Mary of Miracles,” and still stands today.

You’ll find it in the Cannaregio neighborhood, northeast of the Rialto Bridge.  If you look above the altar you’ll see the actual miraculous painting, still in place right where it belongs. Needless to say, this is not just any church. Still gives us chills.

An eleven year, four million dollar restoration by the organization Save Venice brought this church back to life and is the reason it can once again be visited. The salt soaked stones which threatened to destroy its very foundation have been completely cleansed. To find SM dei Miracoli, have a Google map ready. Once inside, notice the segments of marble columns carved with the unusual motifs of mermaids and sea monsters. So amazing!  (No website)

 

 

Update on ristorante Terrazza Danieli

  Well, this is definitely the time of year when temporary closings and unexpected renovations occur.  So it is with the lovely Terrazza Danieli located on the balcony of the famed Danieli Hotel. This romantic place overlooking the lagoon is one of our top dining recommendations in Clued In Venice. Please note that it is currently closed but expects to reopen on Valentine’s Day. We are sorry for any inconvenience.

 

Update on Venice’s beautiful Ca’ Rezzonico

  As one of our top sights in Venice, we were upset to see that the palazzo called Ca’ Rezzonico was suddenly closed to visitors but happy to see that it was because it was going through a much-needed renovation.  This amazing place is one of the few palaces on the Grand Canal that is open to visitors and has interiors and art still intact from the 1700’s.  While currently excluded from our Clued In Venice book, we thought we should mention that it will return to our pages after it has reopened.  There’s also a wonderful art gallery housed in its upper levels but they are currently closed as well.

 

Pastry obsession solved – Venice – January 2023

    There’s nothing that can fill a cold, empty feeling in the tummy like pastry… really good pastry.  It’s true that our local obsession usually switches around depending on the season, but not in Venice. Here our favorite pastry shop from twenty years ago is still our favorite. That’s because it’s fantastic. A visit to Pasticceria Tonolo will give you a true Venetian experience; take an assortment of your favorites in one of their little white boxes back to your hotel and enjoy.  We think its the perfect afternoon treat!   We heartily recommend their freshly baked almond cornetto but everything they have is delicious. You’ll find Tonolo in the Dorsoduro neighborhood, not far from the gorgeous Scuola Grande di San Rocco.  Closed Mondays.  

 

The truth about Christmas Day in Venice – December 2022

   If you had the good taste to choose Venice for your Christmas holiday then you might be wondering how to spend your time on Sunday, December 25 when all of the city’s sights and restaurants will be closed in observance of Christmas Day.  These folks are really into Christmas and will be with their loved ones on the big day. The few dining rooms that will be open (inside various upscale hotels) are probably booked up by now. That means you’ll need to plan ahead…

1)  If you’re staying in a hotel, buy some lovely panini sandwiches from Osteria al Portego, Osteria al Squero, or Osteria alla Bifora the night before, along with some sweet treats and beverages because there’s a good chance that it will be your meal.  2) If you’re staying in an apartment rental, go to the Rialto market in the days before the holiday and get ready to prepare an at-home feast featuring prosciutto, olives, Pecorino Romano cheese, and some bubbly Venetian Prosecco.  3)  In St. Mark’s Square, Venice’s incredible basilica will celebrate morning Mass at 10am so go early to get a seat.  4)  Take a leisurely stroll to the Castello area, all the way down to the grounds of the Biennale park and revel in how you have it all to yourself.  5) Be out and about after the sunset too; slowly but surely other folks will begin to fill the squares and passageways. 6) Caffè Florian is usually open for business on the holiday (!) and on December 26, almost everything in Venice reopens. Merry Christmas!

 

 

Exploring Venice’s “New Prisons”/ November 2022

     Here’s a helpful tip for those Clued In travelers who will be visiting the Doge’s Palace while in Venice… Palazzo Ducale as it is called is right in the main square of Piazza San Marco and offers a rare glimpse into the powerful rulers in the days of the old Republic. Along with the main palace, visitors also get to cross over the infamous Bridge of Sighs (Ponte dei Sospiri) and actually explore the maze of original prisons and dungeons which  thankfully have been steam cleaned. What it must have been like when in use with its rats, excrement, and desperate human misery defies our imagination– not to mention its former darkness, being lit only by a torch or two in each section. It’s fascinating to be there. Some of the cells are open so that you can actually go inside and get a prisoner’s perspective.

These prisons are part of the natural “self guided walk-around” but let us warn you to watch for a sign inside them that urges you on to see even more prison cells… don’t go that way! It’s an endless array of repetitious cells that will take at least twenty-plus minutes to find your way out of. Trust us, the smaller section of prison cells is quite enough and look exactly like the large expanse of these so-called new prisons.  Watch for a little courtyard, open to the sky; to venture on from there is not recommended by us.  Just visit the first section of prisons and be done with it. And, as a reward for your new found freedom from this frightening place, treat yourself to a frozen coffee in the palace’s café near the exit. It’s about a hundred times better than a Frappaccino!

 

 

Enjoy an opera ‘concert’ inside a 15th century palazzo – October 2022

   An evening of musical entertainment awaits you just a short stroll from Piazza San Marco.  Feel a world away from the tourist crowd at a performance by the local operatic group, Musica a Palazzo. These talented folks have removed the boring bits from Verdi and Rossini operas (think La Traviata and The Barber of Seville,) donned costumes, and arranged refreshment inside Palazzo Barbarigo-Minotto on the Grand Canal.  Their live singers and live musicians provide two-hours of hassle-free fun.  And you don’t have to get dressed up if you don’t want to!  We call that a win win. 

 

A Musical Evening: October 2022    

 

 

Make truly lasting memories while you’re on vacation – September 2022

   There’s no better place in Europe to have your photograph taken than in Venice, it’s that simple. And for fabulous photos (that you will look amazing in) turn to a professional.  It’s more affordable than you might think, and some of Europe’s most talented photographers are right here. Win win.  We recommend English-speaking, Kinga Leftska. You can see her gallery here, make an inquiry right on her website, and then cherish the photos for decades to come. Just know that the result will be nothing like selfies or group shots taken by a friendly stranger!

 

 

Where to have a delicious lunch on the cheap – July 2022

   Yes, there are places to have an inexpensive lunch in Venice if you know where to look!  One of our favorites is in the Dorsoduro neighborhood, which is just a short but gorgeous stroll over the Accademia Bridge from the San Marco area.  It’s called Osteria al Squero and its caring owners turn out the freshest local panini sandwiches, cicchetti bites, and other savory goodies for you to savor for just a few euros.

Osteria al Squero’s location makes for a fun experience because it brings you over to the almost-never-visited Fondamenta Zattere boardwalk that faces the main part of Giudecca Island across the water.   It’s like a different world.  While you enjoy your panino, glance over at the Swiss Chalet across the way from the osteria. That’s where gondolas have been created since forever by craftsmen who were imported from the Alpine region specifically for their woodcarving skills. They obviously made themselves right at home.  Note that Osteria al Squero is closed on Sundays.

What’s the address? Uhh, that’s a good question here in Venice… just type it into google maps.

Italy and the USA have removed all Covid restrictions for travelers – June 12, 2022

    It’s time to plan that trip to Venice!  Italy now has no Health Pass (aka Vaccination Certificate) requirement for entering restaurants and museums.  In addition, all incoming travelers can enter Italy without having to follow additional entry rules. As of today, the same is true with the USA.

 

Visit something special that’s probably off your radar – June 2022

   This month, all of our City-Extras  will highlight an awesome local sight that you’ve probably never heard of. (If you have, kudos to you!)  In Venice, that has to be the secret park called Parco Savorgnan. This hidden green space welcomes the public but you’d never know it by visiting.  You will not see one tourist there ever. None.  You may however see one or two of Venice’s pooches. Its grassy areas, benches, and tall leafy trees are a welcome relief on a hot and crowded summer weekend.  You’ll find it just a stone’s throw northwest of the Santa Lucia station, near the bridge called Ponte delle Guglie.  There’s even a small playground for kids. Pack up a few sandwiches and a bottle of red and relax for a spell.

 

A night in the piazza; Venice the old school way – May 2022

   There are an assortment of evening entertainments in Venice, from lively bars, to concerts inside palazzi, and even a tiny discotheque… but none of them can hold a candle to an evening in Piazza San Marco.  It’s old school of course, but that’s what makes it fabulous. 

May is the start of the true café society season here, with all three quintets playing simultaneously. Sometimes they even stage a little competition with each other which is very amusing. Until midnight, white-jacketed waiters will serve your thick hot chocolate, biscotti, coffee, or cocktails on a silver tray as if you were royalty. There is simply nothing like it. 

The little orchestras do take musical requests (be sure to tip!) and if take a table every night of your stay the musicians will start greeting you like a regular.  So grab a credit card and get out there, and skip that terrible idea of staying in your room to sip your duty-free bottle of vodka from plastic cups. 

The Biennale art exhibition is back – February 2022 update

     Venice’s famed modern art festival only happens every other year and was further interrupted and scaled down by the pandemic.  We are pleased to announce that it will indeed be back in full force this year, from April 23 to November 27.  As usual, it will be presented at the Giardini della Biennale (a park in the eastern section of Venice.) Art lovers from all over the world will come to show their adoration to favorite artists and thrill in the discovery of new ones. Whether you are entrenched in the art world or not, don’t miss a chance to visit it. Tickets are on sale now through the official website here.

Plan ahead for the trip of a lifetime  – January 2022 update

    You might not think so right now, but travel will be returning in a big way and those who plan now will reap the benefits. As the pandemic fades, try to be one of the first to make a trip to Venice and enjoy it in a blissfully uncrowded way. Try making a detailed yet fluid itinerary without precise dates. Pencil in the days of the week only, noting which of your preferred sights are closed on Sundays or Mondays, etc. This will give you a basic framework on which to build your dream journey.  

     The more you can plan beforehand, the better it will be. At Clued In Travel Books we are big believers in having reservations at the restaurants we most desire rather than settling for our second or third choices. Dinner reservations are especially likely to fill up if not made in advance. As for the best sights, well, these must be booked ahead (due to the requirements of contactless service.) And with absolutely everyone now booking ahead, these too are more likely to sell out.

    Travelers visiting our particular website probably understand this so we won’t beat a dead horse. If you are the type of traveler who likes to go somewhere with no plans or reservations in order to just see where fate takes you, we say, “Good luck and bless your heart.”

    So, grab one of our travel books and peruse through it to the end. You’ll be shocked at how a city you knew nothing about is suddenly as familiar as can be.  It’s almost magical.  

Merry Christmas & Happy New Year!

    The folks here at Clued In Travel Books wish you and yours a wonderful and safe holiday season filled with lots of love and lots of food. If you avoid conversations about religion, politics, and mask mandates you’ll be just fine! Let’s hope we get back to some normalcy in 2022, especially in regard to travel. It’s what we live for.

All the best to all of you, Dean & Andie

 

Our brand new edition for 2022 is on Amazon now! – December 2021

    Some things have changed in Italy, but much has stayed the same.  We think it’s actually better than ever and are very happy to announce our brand new version of Clued In Venice for 2022. Use the link above to see its dedicated product page because it’s super-fun and has some new surprises.  Let’s just call it the best one we’ve ever written!    

 

Should you go to Venice in the fall? –  November 2021

   The short answer is absolutely!  There is so much going on in November and December, (much more than in the summertime where crowds can bring this watery city to a halt.) Right now lucky travelers are enjoying Vivaldi concerts at the church of San Vidal, the La Fenice opera season in full-swing, Biennale Architectural events, installation of the Christmas markets, and the historic Feste della Salute on November 21st. The best thing might be having the incredible Scuola di San Rocco all to yourself on a weekday morning. All of these experiences are unforgettable so start packing your bags while the the airfares are still cheap. And don’t forget to arm yourself with our fall edition of Clued In Venice… we want you to enjoy your dining experiences here- not end up with tourist food!

 

Venice celebrates its 1600th birthday!  Some quick history for 2021:

   Yes, you read that correctly. This year marks sixteen-hundred years since Venice was founded on several mounds of sand in a large swamp off the coast of the Veneto region. Many people may not know this place is so old but it’s true.  Rome fell around 395 AD and it was just a few years later that Venice was established. By 697 AD it was a Republic, and by 1093 AD it had its magnificent basilica.  Reaching its richest and most powerful era in the mid-1400’s, it thrived from its unique geographic location along the spice routes.

   Today it still feels like a mix between the east and the west, and not really Italian at all. But what is Italian really, other than the name of the long peninsula that has hosted four separate and unique nations, each with its own customs, styles, governments, and vernacular: Rome, Naples, Florence, and Venice. It was not until recently, in 1861 to be exact, that the realms were finally united as Italia.

   Celebrations of every kind will be happening to mark the occasion and will last at least until Carnevale 2022. Don’t miss this once in a lifetime opportunity to visit during such an amazing time. There’s even a dedicated website for the festivities here. Italy is open and waiting; grab a Clued In Venice book and start planning.  Happy Birthday Venezia!

 

 

 

Dreaming of Travel – April 2020

     We miss you Venice, and send our prayers and best wishes to all of our wonderful friends there. Take care, and stay inside as much as possible to help with the spread of COVID-19! We hopefully we’ll be back there very soon. 

 

 

Where to enjoy an amazing holiday dinner – December 2019

     We love having a meal with a festive menu at holiday time, and in Venice that means the lovely Grand Canal Restaurant at the Hotel Monaco.  Sitting right on the Grand Canal, it has a view of the Santa Maria della Salute church and is conveniently located near Piazza San Marco. Holiday menus include Christmas Eve dinner, Christmas Day lunch, and even New Year’s Eve. Below is the multi-course menu for the Christmas Day lunch:

Bignolata with smoked provola cheese / Salami, Pumpkin, Foie Gras, & Calstelmagno / Ravioli filled with capon / Housemade gnocchi with melted cheese and hazelnuts / Glazed Lamb with eggplant mille-feuille / Our own Grand Canal Trifle / Caffè espresso

  

Halloween party-time in Venice – October 2019

   Our recommendations for Venice in autumn usually include opera openings or new restaurants, but the season has inspired us to go in a spookier direction this year. While the creepiest thing in Venice is probably just walking its maze of corridors late at night, there are some fun Halloween parties going on. The chic one is held at the Hilton Molino Stucky’s Skyline Rooftop Bar on Giudecca island but you’ll need to call them for tickets.  There’s also a tiny disco that does its best to party hard on Halloween and it’s conveniently located right in the Dorsoduro neighborhood. Check out the Piccolo Mondo Disco Club website here.  

 

Learn about Il Redentore – July 2019

    Are you going to be in Venice on July 20 or 21? If so, you picked a fabulous time to visit. The glorious Festa del Redentore or “Festival of the Redeemer,” is a Venetian-only festival that celebrates the defeat of the plague in the the 16th and 17th centuries.  It is held annually around the third Sunday of July and puts the city in a very celebratory mood. For the event, a floating bridge made of boats tied together is erected from the Fondemente Zattere (in the Dorosoduro neighborhood) to Palladio’s Church of the Redeemer out on Giudecca Island. Hey it’s not everyday you can walk to the Giudecca! At night, a huge fireworks display over the lagoon caps the festivities. Photo-worthy!

 

Festivals & Events – May 2019

    Three special Venetian events are happening in May:   The Vogalonga, on May 24^th is Venice’s largest boat race and has a 30km course which goes all from the lagoon to Murano Island and even through the Grand Canal.  It’s for non-motorized craft only, including traditional Venetian boats as well as kayaks, Chinese dragon boats, and many others. Crews row their hearts out for the honor of winning. The city will also be presenting its Festival of Choirs from May 22 which is a free event right in Piazza San Marco. Finally, it’s Biennale time again and the opening day of this world famous art event is May 11^th. 

 

 

Carnevale in Venice – February 2019

    Attending the extravagant Venice Carnevale festival is a once in a lifetime event and you may be able to still catch it this year because its date is later than anytime in recent memory, from February 16 to March 5th. Masked balls, special performances, and parades will take place right up to its culmination on Shrove Tuesday.  Of course, if you intend to indulge in this decadence, you had better get on it now. Hotel rooms and costume rentals will soon become scarce, and direct flights are probably already hard to find. If you’re determined, however, fly into another major Italian city and take a train into Venice. 

The Venice Carnevale will begin on February 16 and culminates on March 5. (The grand opening event will be held on Sunday, February 17.) Check out this handy website for more details:  Venice Carnevale 2019

   

Update – October 2018

    In the early fall, Venetians turn their nighttime attentions to opera.  If you’ve never attended this type of musical performance, an evening inside the exquisite La Fenice Opera House will not fail to entertain you. This year, there’s an emphasis on the composer Rossini and tickets to his Barber of Seville (Il Barbiere di Siviglia) can be purchased for late October through their website if you hurry.  It’s a humorous romp, and many of the arias will be familiar.  Just go!

Update – September Events 2018

     Don’t miss the glorious Regata Storica (historic regatta) which has its roots in the 13th century because you can still enjoy it today. On September 2, 2018 at 4pm, ornate boats and the Doge’s own golden bucintoro will start the festivities. The procession boasts fabulous 16th-century costumes, and afterwards exciting boat races will take place culminating in the much-anticipated two-oar’d gondola race. You can see it all for free if you snag a spot along the edge of the Grand Canal between the University Ca’ Foscari and Palazzo Cavalli. If you really want to do things right, pay €60 for a seat on the floating awards stage by visiting VeneziaUnica.it.  The official schedule of events is listed below. In addition, you can see the race participants being blessed at the base of the Santa Maria della Salute church on the Thursday prior.

4pm    –   Historical boats pageant

4.30pm – Twin-oared regatta of children’s boats

4.50pm – Young rowers twin-oared pupparini regatta

5.10pm – Women’s twin-oared mascarete regatta

5.30pm – Garda Lake bisse regatta

5.40pm – Six-oared Caroline regatta

6pm       -International universities boat challenge

6.10pm – Twin-oared gondolini regatta

 

  

May 2018: Awaiting your upcoming trip

    If you’re like us, you like to think about a European sojourn almost as much as going on one! For those dreamers and planners, we thought we’d take a moment to introduce you to our favorite live viewers, Skyline Webcams. Through their terrific website, we’ve watched everything from a lone man with a twig broom sweeping the entire piazza, to a crazy Carnivale celebration. You just never know what you’re going to see. They have several live cams in Venice (some with sound!) so check out the list and start getting excited for your own visit there.  If you’re in the USA, remember that Italy is six hours ahead of the east coast and nine hours ahead of the west coast. Also note that you can view a time lapse of the past 24 hours, so fun when you’re talking about all the watercraft on the Grand Canal!

 

Update: April 2018

     Venice’s three-day Mare Maggio festival of exhibitions and fairs celebrates the great maritime history of the city. The best part is that the event is held inside the enormous Arsenale di Venezia (the city’s arsenal) where during its heyday the workers could build a warship a day. This is very special because the Arsenale usually has limited visiting privileges and is locked up tight more often than not. This is your chance to not only get inside, but to truly enjoy some historical reenactments, vintage ships, relics of the navy and even take a tour of the lagoon on a traditional boat.  Online info is limited, so if you will be in Venice in mid-May be certain to ask your hotel concierge for directions and details.

 

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The Masked Ball – a once in a lifetime experience/ January 2018

Costumes and masks are required at most of the lavish carnivale balls

       Planning a February trip to Venice? Your timing couldn’t be better, especially if you get there before February 13!  The annual craziness known as Carnivale (Mardi Gras) culminates on that date this year, though it is celebrated for a good two weeks before. It must be seen to be believed, and for those lucky enough to get a ticket to one of the many masked balls, it’s an event that will not soon be forgotten. There are tours and packages that include them and many of the larger four star hotels have their own masked events too.  If you intend to be in full costume, it’s best to reserve a rental ahead of time by internet or phone at one of Venice’s many costume shops dedicated to this purpose. We like Atelia Marega located at Fondamenta dell’Osmarin #4968 (in the San Polo section) but there are great ones all over town and easy to find online.  They have everything you need, including wigs, shoes, masks, and the like.  If your ambition is to simply run around the watery city in only masks, there are many places to buy them. They range from around 5 euros to some in the hundreds so there’s definitely a price range for everybody.  Either way, this is an age-old event that should not be missed!

 

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year from Venice, 2017!

     “La Serenissima,” as Venice is called, definitely knows how to welcome visitors and does it in style during the holidays. The lovely Hotel Danieli (shown below) is all decked out and is the perfect place to enjoy a pre-dinner cocktail. Treat yourself to a performance at La Fenice, one of the oldest and most beautiful opera houses is the world. Head for the piazza if you want to experience the best hot cocoa of your life, and don’t miss the incredible Accademia Gallery! 

 

Where to have breakfast when you don’t like what your hotel is offering: (July 2017)

    Grab a quick and tasty breakfast at a bakeshop. Lucky for you there are two locations of the minimalist, understated Farini bakeshops: one at 5602 in the Castello, and one at 655 in San Polo. This is perfect for those who don’t want a sugary pastry breakfast. They don’t have a website because they are obviously too busy baking, so get out your google map and type them in. What you will get in return is a freshly baked breakfast and great Italian coffee. Squisito!

 

Update: Summer in Venice (June 2017)

     Okay, so you’ve conquered the Biennale and now just want to enjoy an evening away from the crowds and heat. Why not head over to the Giudecca? It’s a short, non-stop ride on waterbus Vaporetto #2 from the Dorsoduro’s Zattere stop to the Giudecca’s Palanca stop. The huge Hilton Molino Stucky (shown above) has a gorgeous rooftop lounge called The Skyline. It’s view of Venice proper is nothing less than astounding. 

Update: Fall 2016

   If you will be in Venice before November 27, you will be able to catch the city’s fabulous Architecture Biennale festival which is held every other year (in opposition to their International Art Exhibit.) Special talks and visual presentations highlight this architectural event. For more information visit their website.

 

     

Update: Summer 2016 

      Two of our favorite “small-restaurant” recommendations, Antica Besseta and Enoteca Ai Artisti, just keep getting better and better. If you want to dine at either of these, you had better reserve your table in advance. Delizioso!  Their websites are conveniently listed in our 2016 Clued In Venice ebook.