Clued In Edinburgh – The Concise and Opinionated Guide to the City 2026
This is the year. Scotland is waiting. Let us take you there.
Grab the new 2026 edition here, in print or ebook.
Please note: There have been recent reviews on Amazon.com that give only 1 star and contain wildly untrue criticisms purposely meant to damage our brand. Rest assured that our paperback editions measure only 5″ x 8″ and weigh just 8 ounces. At around 200 pages, our travel books contain all the info needed for an incredible trip, and are not the size of a “brochure.” They have normal sized fonts, and what is not Googleable in them are our concise, personal opinions of each sight, hotel, restaurant, and transport option, which is the very point of our books. Thank you.
NEXT ARTICLE:
NEXT ARTICLE
IMPORTANT: New (official!) link for the required ETA entry
An ETA (Electronic Travel Authorization) is required for Americans and Canadians to enter the United Kingdom. Apply online for entry and pay the fee of £16 (good for two years) at least one week in advance of your travels –and be approved- or you will not be allowed to board your international flight. This ETA visa-waiver (as it is called) is required in addition to a current, valid passport. Babies and children are not exempt from this application process and fee! Visit only this official link to apply or learn more: gov.uk/eta/apply (Our ebooks and paperbacks for Clued In Edinburgh are urgently being updated with this change of link!)
NEXT ARTICLE:
The truth about Christmas Day in Edinburgh – December 2025
If you had the good taste to choose Scotland for your Christmas holiday then you might be wondering how to spend your time on Thursday, December 25 when all of the city’s sights and restaurants will be closed in observance of Christmas Day. These folks are really into Christmas and will spend it at home with their loved ones. The few dining rooms that will be open (at various Edinburgh hotels) will book up quickly. That means you’ll need to plan ahead…
1) If you’re staying in a hotel but did not snag a dining reservation, just buy some lovely sandwiches or pulled pork at Oink the afternoon before, along with some sweet treats and beverages because there’s a good chance that it will be your meal. 2) If you’re staying in an apartment, go to the grocery store, cheese shop, and butcher in the days before the holiday and get ready to prepare an at-home feast. 3) In the old town, the 900 year-old St. Giles Cathedral will present a special holiday Mass around 11am but go early to get a seat. 4) If you have a rental car, go for a drive out to the famed Rosslyn Chapel or the seaside at the Firth of Forth and revel in having the roads all to yourself. 5) If no vehicle is at your disposal, then bundle up and go for a stroll through the charming Dean’s Village and see the supposedly magical Water of Leith for yourself. 6) Stay out and about after the early sunset too; slowly but surely other folks will begin to fill the streets. Merry Christmas!
NEXT ARTICLE:
Where to enjoy an amazing holiday meal- November 2025
We love a festive meal and in Edinburgh that means the Rhubarb Restaurant at the Prestonfield House Inn. Their special menu will be offered from around December 1 through January 2 but must be booked as soon as possible while tables are still available. Note that this amazing mansion-hotel is only a ten-minute Uber ride from the old town. Here are some of the dishes offered for the Christmas season and Hogmanay last year:
White onion velouté, braised ox cheek, and cheddar toast rarebit with beer-pickled shallot – Pheasant with streaky bacon and sage, cranberries, herb-crusted parsnip and brown butter mash – Warm Christmas pudding, caramelized orange sauce and homemade spiced rum ice cream
NEXT ARTICLE:
NEXT ARTICLE:
A Fabulous Hallowe’en in Edinburgh – October 2025
We can’t think of anywhere better to spend Halloween than right here in Edinburgh. As one of the most haunted cities in the world, Edinburgh takes full advantage of its innate spookiness and presents ghostly events all over town. There’s the amazing Celtic, pagan Samhuinn Fire Festival up on Calton Hill, various chilling Mercat ghost tours, the super creepy Edinburgh Dudgeon attraction, and even the Skulls & Snakes Supper at the Edinburgh zoo after closing time! If you’re drawn to Edinburgh castle, don’t miss its creepy decorations, pumpkins, guides in period costume, and spine-tingling tales being told throughout the month of October. The city also boasts a Haunted Trail and a haunted Georgian house that can be toured after dark. Boooooo to you!
NEXT ARTICLE:
Local events to keep you busy – September 2025
Edinburgh is fabulous in September and still offers plenty of daylight to enjoy some awesome local events. On Saturday mornings you’ll find award-winning farmer’s markets at both the Castle Terrace and Grassmarket Square, or if you’re feeling creative, reserve a spot at the handbag-making workshop where you get to pick the tweed, leather, and other materials yourself. Then there’s our favorite, the delightful Cheese Lounge cafe at one of the I.J. Mellis Cheesemonger locations. So fun!
NEXT ARTICLE:
In Focus: A different kind of museum – August 2025
Looking for an an awesome local sight that you’ve probably never heard of? In Edinburgh it’s the often overlooked Museum on the Mound. This unusual museum in the city center explores the history of money and is actually quite interesting. Even so, it’s your kids that will be the most enthused. They can mint their own coin and even try their hand at cracking a safe. If successful, they might just receive a chocolate treat! Entry is free to all. (Usually closed on Sundays and Mondays.)
NEXT ARTICLE:
Grab our fun guide to Edinburgh – July 2025
Our companion book to Clued In Edinburgh is chock full of super fun experiences. Grab your copy of Bored in Edinburgh– Awesome Experiences for the Repeat Visitor before you wrap up your plans and itinerary for that trip to Scotland. It’ll change the way you think about how you’re going to use your time while you’re here. It’s fantastic for first-time visitors as well, so get your paperback or eBook today.
NEXT ARTICLE
NEXT ARTICLE
In Focus: Dishoom Edinburgh – June 2025
If you’re craving spicy food while you’re in Edinburgh, grab a reservation for Dishoom restaurant. Our Clued In London readers already know how much we admire their incredible Bombay-style cuisine, especially their scrumptious breakfast fare! We were thrilled to discover that there was one in Edinburgh as well, and it’s very centrally located. You’ll find it along a mini restaurant row near the Waverly train station. Try the Chicken Ruby or the Gunpowder Potatoes or whatever sounds good to you because it’s all noteworthy. And they serve the best Chai Tea we have ever had. Info about their reservations policy can be found on their website so click on their name (above.)
NEXT ARTICLE
Enjoy a spring visit to the Edinburgh Zoo – May 2025
Most visitors to Scotland’s capital city of Edinburgh seem surprised to learn that there’s a world class zoological sanctuary here. From giant pandas to giraffes, flamingos, koalas, big cats, and monkeys, this amazing 82-acre park boasts more than 2,000 species. Spend some outdoor time in the beautiful May weather and have a truly memorable day.
NEXT ARTICLE
NEXT ARTICLE
The Pub Report – April 2025
Our readers know that we include a concise but helpful segment in our UK travel books called The Pub Report. For London it means a historic pub crawl, for Edinburgh it means a haunted pub crawl! Here’s an excerpt from our Clued In Edinburgh book…
Edinburgh’s sinister history and preserved medieval town has given it a reputation as one of the most haunted cities in the world. Indeed, there are so many places deemed haunted that it’s difficult to keep track of them all but one thing is sure…many of them are pubs. That’s why we just couldn’t resist sending you on a haunted pub crawl. And like any good crawl, all four of our picks are located near one another (in the Old Town,, of course.)
Unlike London, Edinburgh’s pubs are open late, sometimes even after midnight on the weekends. Enjoy that whisky but keep your senses about ye ‘cause ye never know what’s behind ye, lurkin’ thar in that wee corner. Slanjevar!
1) The White Hart Inn – The most haunted pub in Scotland Ask any Edinburgher which pub is the most haunted and all will say this one is. That’s why it tops our haunted pub crawl… if you don’t make it to the others at least you can say you had a drink and survived the infamous White Hart Inn. Established in 1556, it’s also the oldest pub in the city and has experienced unexplained occurrences for centuries. The staff there is terrified of its cellar. Bonus: they usual offer live, traditional Scottish music nearly every night for no extra charge.
2) The Beehive Inn – Will the real Ebenezer please stand up? Now move west a few yards and find The Beehive Inn. As a former coaching inn from the 17th century, it’s one of the larger pubs in the area and has modern, renovated interiors. It once had cells for condemned prisoners who were to be hung in the square. Look for the historic “prisoner’s cell door” that’s still in place near the stairs.
When Dickens was visiting Edinburgh in 1841, he noticed a kirkyard gravestone from the 1700’s that was carved Ebenezer Scroggie – a meal man (meaning that he was a corn merchant) but Dickens misread it and thought it said a mean man. He was strangely preoccupied by the memory of it, and wondering what made the man deserve such a terrible headstone. He figured the man had to have been absolutely despicable. This was the basis of one of his most famous characters, Ebenezer Scrooge from A Christmas Carol. No one knows much about Ebenezer Scroggie (the corn merchant) except that he lived in the rooms just above the Beehive Inn.
3) The Last Drop – Why is that child in here? Next, head east in Grassmarket Square and look for the black exterior of The Last Drop. This pub used to stand next to gallows for public executions by hanging, an especially popular thing during the 18th century. The pub’s name comes from those prisoners literally having their last drop.
This cozy establishment has several photos and nooses indicating its gruesome past, as well as a “resident female ghost.” A young girl has been seen on numerous occasions and is known to play tricks on just about anyone inside. The Last Drop is also known for its vast collection of authentic cask ales. Yum!
4) The Bow Bar – Time to kick up your heels Exiting out the east side of Grassmarket Square, you’ll need to head up West Bow Street, that gentle curving hill on your left that becomes Victoria Street. (We’re trying to be gentle and exacting here because you’ve probably had more than a few drams of whisky by now and may not be as quick to understand.)
As you walk up the hill you should notice The Bow Bar on your right. Go inside and grab a seat at the bar; this is the final stop of your crawl. It’s the least fancy of the four we’ve chosen but if you’re properly tipsy you may not notice. They have no food, no live music, and no garden. This is where young locals come to drink and mingle… that’s it. We can’t vouch for how haunted this one is but at this point it shouldn’t matter to you. It was recently voted Scotland’s Pub of the Year, probably because of their astounding two-hundred-fifty different malt beers.
NEXT ARTICLE
Worried about the upcoming tourist tax on hotels? – March 2025
You may have noticed a recent article on Google claiming that Edinburgh will soon begin charging a tourist tax on accommodations like hotels and apartment rentals. This isn’t altogether true! It was just typical click-bait so they could make money from the advertisers on that page. The truth is, there will be a nightly tourist tax of just 5% on accommodations (capped at five nights) but the first visitors that will be charged this new rate won’t be until July 2026 (yes, that’s next year.) We just wanted to set the record straight. Now there’s another reason to go to beautiful Scotland now.
Attend a fun workshop while you’re on vacation – February 2025
You may not have considered booking a workshop while you’re away from your daily grind, but it’s the best way to learn about a particular culture. Workshops are a blast and will undoubtedly become a cherished memory. In Edinburgh, that means learning to appreciate whisky at a fun tasting class. Our friends at Jeffrey Street Whisky will teach you everything you need to know. Details are in our new Bored in Edinburgh: Awesome Experiences for the Repeat Visitor book, but here’s a handy link to their workshops. They are conveniently held right off the Royal Mile in the historic center of the Old Town. You can book many different whisky tastings through their website calendar. Slangevar!
Night owls rejoice – January 2025
If you’re one of those people who just comes alive at night, Edinburgh in January is for you! Being a northern city, the winter daylight hours run from about 8:30am to 4pm giving you plenty of darkness to run around in. Don’t worry, the temperatures only get down into the high 30’s so it’s not that bad, and their multitude of quaint pubs will be going strong. Nothing like a hot toddy to warm your cockles. We recommend the gorgeous Deacon Brodie’s Tavern located just a stone’s throw from the famed Edinburgh Castle. Say hello for us!
The truth about Christmas Day in Edinburgh – December 2024
If you had the good taste to choose Scotland for your Christmas holiday then you might be wondering how to spend your time on Wednesday, December 25 when all of the city’s sights and restaurants will be closed in observance of Christmas Day. These folks are really into Christmas and will spend it at home with their loved ones. The few dining rooms that will be open (at various Edinburgh hotels) are probably booked up by now. That means you’ll need to plan ahead…
1) If you’re staying in a hotel, buy some lovely sandwiches or pulled pork at Oink the afternoon before, along with some sweet treats and beverages because there’s a good chance that it will be your meal. 2) If you’re staying in an apartment rental, go to the grocery store, cheese shop, and butcher in the days before the holiday and get ready to prepare an at-home feast. 3) In the old town, the 900 year-old St. Giles Cathedral will present a special holiday Mass at 11am so go early to get a seat. 4) If you have a rental car, go for a drive out to the famed Rosslyn Chapel or the seaside at the Firth of Forth and revel in having the roads all to yourself. 5) If no vehicle is at your disposal then bundle up and go for a stroll through the charming Dean’s Village and see the supposedly magical Water of Leith for yourself. 6) Stay out and about after the early sunset too; slowly but surely other folks will begin to fill the streets. Merry Christmas!
Important Update: November 2024
An ETA (Electronic Travel Authorization) is now required to enter the entire United Kingdom starting in January 2025. Apply online for entry and pay the fee of £10 (good for two years) at least one week in advance of your travels –and be approved- or you will not be allowed to board your international flight. This ETA visa-waiver (as it is called) is required in addition to a current, valid passport. Babies and children are not exempt from this application process and fee! Visit the official link to apply or learn more: https://etauk.co.uk
In Focus: New Year’s Eve Edinburgh-style
If you plan on being in Edinburgh over the New Year, then you should start making plans right now. In Scotland, the final days of the year are referred to as Hogmanay, and it’s the largest New Year’s Eve celebration in the world. (That link will take you to a comprehensive website will all the Hogmanay info you could ever need.) From the opening Torchlight Procession of around 25,000 people to the city’s incredible fireworks displayed over the castle, let’s just say you’re in for a treat –and that’s without even mentioning all the Scottish whisky you might drink. Hagmanay is a multi-day event which begins with concerts and costumed antics on December 29th and continuing through January 1st. Some folks will be taking a cold dip into the Firth of Forth harbor, proving that these are very sturdy revelers indeed!
It’s the start of the social season in Edinburgh – October 2024
There’s a lot going on in the Scottish capital so if you’re planning to visit during the fall season, snag a ticket to something soon. We recommend a new production of A Streetcar Named Desire by Tennessee Williams, which will be performed at the city’s gorgeous Royal Lyceum Theatre. As of this posting there are still tickets available.
In addition, there are upcoming performances of the play, The Baddies, as well as Treasure Island. Either of these are great for families to enjoy together. So fun!
Grab our “fun” guide to Edinburgh! September 2024
Our “companion book” to Clued In Edinburgh is chock full of super fun experiences. Grab your copy of Bored in Edinburgh– Awesome Experiences for the Repeat Visitor before you wrap up your plans and itinerary for that trip to Scotland. It’ll change the way you think about how you’re going to use your time while you’re here. We think it’s a must-have, even for first-time visitors. It is offered in both paperback and eBook and you can learn more about it right here.
Explore the creepy underground vaults of Edinburgh – August 2024
Our recommendations for Edinburgh in summer would normally include musical events or new restaurants, but our alternate series of “Bored In” Travel Books have inspired us to go in a spookier direction this year. Below is one of the scarier things you can visit that’s featured in our Bored in Edinburgh: Awesome Experiences for the Repeat Visitor: Our “Bored Books” are fantastic for the first-time visitor as well.
Beneath the city’s South Bridge (one of the oldest parts of Edinburgh) lies a series of disused underground vaults from the 1700’s. You can tour them at night when they’re at their spine-tingling best and visit the spirits who dwell there. With an experienced tour guide from Mercat Specialty Tours, you’ll brave the dark passageways and hear historic tales in a way that only a true Scot can tell them. You’ll see excavated spaces, previous human habitation, and even an abandoned tavern with wine vaults. This 75-minute walking tour of subterranean Edinburgh even has a special Halloween event inside the vaults but you’ll need to book as soon as possible though a special link here. October will be here before you know it.
Looking for something snazzier than a pub? – July 2024
If you’re feeling a bit fancy and want to make an evening of it, head over to the city’s award-winning Voodoo Rooms located just north of the historic Balmoral Hotel. The plush interiors and fabulous mixology paired with live music make for a classy alternative to the usual Edinburgh evening. The Voodoo Rooms venue is open seven days a week so check their website for the everchanging musical offerings. It’s the perfect place to celebrate an event!
Long days and itty-bitty nights – June 2024
First-time visitors to Scotland may not realize just how far north this place is… and the beginning of summer definitely reaps the benefits of that. Imagine a day where the sun rises at 4:30am and sets at 10pm! That’s Edinburgh in June. We recommend packing as much fun into that long day as you possibly can. Go for a sunrise run along the Water of Leith and Dean Village, then get dressed for a leisurely breakfast at The Pantry. Next, grab an Uber to Hawes Pier in South Queensferry and catch the boat that’s going out to the strange and beautiful Inchcolm Island -which is only accessible this time of year. By the time you’re back, you might just squeeze in a nap. When you wake up, go for a cheese-tasting at I J Mellis then stroll the old town and indulge some old fashioned candy at Bains Retro Sweets. If you have the energy for a nice meal, head over to the lovely Escargot Bleu, and then it’s whisky time at one of the city’s most haunted pubs, either the White Hart Inn or the Tolbooth Tavern. Finally, enjoy the sunset from the plaza in front of Edinburgh Castle and congratulate yourself on a truly glorious day.
Take a chocolate-making workshop in the Old Town – May 2024
Eat. Pray. Love? How about Learn. Make. Taste? The folks at the Old Town’s newest raved-about shop, The Chocolatarium are ready to take you through the paces of their exclusive chocolate tour. Described as “ninety minutes of chocolate heaven,” this experience is perfect for anyone with a sweet tooth. After learning all the chocolate and cocoa basics, you’ll embark on a tasting and then make your very own chocolate bar to take with you. You can even choose to make a chocolate Loch Ness Monster! Let’s just say you may never be the same again.
These workshops are offered nearly every day, just off the Royal Mile. Check the website above for all the pertinent details and current availability, or give them a call at (011) 44–131–556–7005. It’s always best to book ahead.
Update for Clued In Edinburgh and Bored in Edinburgh – April 2024
We had to say goodbye this month to the city’s only jazz spot known simply as The Jazz Bar. After nineteen years and the loss of its founder Bill Kyle, the current team just couldn’t keep things going. The city’s Grand Cafe often features jazz ensembles and we recommend it, but it’s just not the same as hearing that music in a more casual venue. Note that both books have been updated already so this notice is for those who have an earlier edition. Thank you for your kind understanding.
How to stay afloat in Edinburgh – April 2024
If you’re heading over to our favorite city in Scotland and haven’t made your hotel reservations yet, consider a stay aboard a ship permanently docked in the Firth of Forth! The Fingal is a stunning decommissioned ship-turned-hotel (stationed very near to Her Majesty’s Royal Yacht Britannia) and might be just the kind of unusual experience you’ve been looking for. Consider staying there for a night or two, just to take it all in and make some very special memories. Then switch to a hotel in Edinburgh’s city center. We won’t tell. “An exquisite five star, twenty-three cabin boutique hotel complete with ballroom and sweeping grand staircase.” Their website shows you everything you need to see!
In Focus: the Lumo Train from Edinburgh to London – March 2024
Yearning for an easy London side trip? A super affordable, direct train route between Edinburgh and London is now operational and tickets start at around £20 if booked in advance. (Competition from Easy Jet and other budget airlines is the reason; it used to cost five times as much to travel between the two capitals by train compared to the cheapy-cheap airlines.)
Now you can just hop on-board one of Lumo’s new, electric-powered trains right from Edinburgh’s Waverley Station. Trains feature a catering service, free WiFi, entertainment systems, and paperless ticketing. The route ends at London’s Kings Cross Station which just happens to be very central to the entire city. Let’s go get a wee bit o’ English love. Cheers!
In Focus: Craigmillar Castle – February 2024
Often overshadowed by its big sister, Edinburgh Castle, Craigmillar Castle may not be on your Scotland visit radar. If you’ll be staying in Edinburgh more than a night or two then we absolutely recommend a visit to this very memorable ruin. Unlike many ruins in Scotland, this one is actually quite intact and that’s what we love about it. Probably built as a hunting retreat in the late 1300’s, it continued to be expanded until it reached its present size, battlements and all. Mary, Queen of Scots took refuge there on more than one occasion, and her lords used the castle as a secret meeting place to plan the murder of her husband.
While there are currently no furnishings such as tapestries, kitchenware, beds, or weapons to decorate the place, Craigmillar still stands and boasts a truly magical mystique. For a few bucks, visitors are allowed to walk freely through its rooms, halls, and tower without guides or instructions. It is simply yours to discover and to feel the vibrant history of its past residents. Since Craigmillar Castle is located less than three miles from Edinburgh’s city center, just hop in a taxi or Uber car.
Plan ahead for the trip of a lifetime – January 2024
The more you can plan beforehand, the better your visit to Edinburgh will be. At Clued In Travel Books, we are big believers in having reservations at the restaurants we most desire rather than settling for our second or third choices. Restaurants tend to fill up fast, especially around Valentine’s Day (which has become a global holiday.) As for the city’s top sights, book most of them ahead too because everyone else will be doing the same; times have definitely changed. You didn’t come this far only to find the candlelight dinner service at The Witchery is sold out. Having reservations and tickets brings about the amazing effect of keeping your sight-seeing on track. No flaking out allowed!
If you are the type of traveler who likes to go to an undiscovered city with no plans (just to see where fate takes you) then we say, “Good luck and bless your heart.” Instead, go ahead and grab one of our travel books and peruse through it to the end. You’ll be shocked at how a place you knew nothing about is suddenly as clear as can be. It’s almost magical.
One of our newest fans recently stated, “I thought I would “dog -ear” a few pages to go back and read later, and I simply could not put the book down. I ended up with over half of the pages with a turned down corner! I am fortunate to have traveled to over 30 countries and have used all of the popular guidebooks; Rick Steves, Frommers, and Lonely Planet… and this one is best of all.”
In Focus: the Tolbooth Tavern – November 2023
The famously haunted Tolbooth Tavern is both a historic sight and a great place to grab an ale. Built in 1591, it used to be outside the city gates and was the official tollbooth to enter into Edinburgh’s Canongate neighborhood. Located on what is now called “the Royal Mile” (the main boulevard of the Old Town) it’s closer to His Majesty’s Holyroodhouse palace than it is to the city’s famous castle. Even so, it’s worth a stop and offers all the traditional pub food you could want. You might just make a new friend during your visit, from this century or a previous one.
Planning ahead for an autumn visit – September 2023
If you’re heading to Scotland in the coming months, here’s a heads up about a few events taking place in Edinburgh and beyond. In mid-October, the annual Scottish International Storytelling Festival is for adults and kids alike, and features venues where you can enjoy live storytelling and revelations about Scottish traditions. At the end of October, Hallowe’en brings out the more ancient spirit of the city with witches, bonfires, and disguised children carrying lanterns made from turnips… a frightening thing unto itself. There will be plenty of scary ghost tours, haunted nights some of the castles, not to mention annual performance by the city’s own Beltane Fire Society featuring Druid dances, costumes, acrobatics with fire and drums. With just a few hours of sunshine a day, the abundance of darkness makes Edinburgh the perfect spooky location to spend the holiday. On November 5th, giant bonfires will be lit throughout Scotland in celebration of Guy Fawkes Night. (In 1605, Guy Fawkes tried to blow up London’s Houses of Parliament with twenty barrels of gunpowder.) A fireworks display is set off every year to celebrate his capture.
Sometimes you just want a great sandwich – August 2023
In Edinburgh, that automatically means a pulled pork sandwich right from a slow-cooked hog roast at Oink. While there are several locations in town where you can sink your teeth into this tasty bite, we simply head over to the one on lovely Victoria Street. (There’s also one in the New Town near Princes Street and one in Canongate right on the famous Royal Mile.) The tender, flavorful pork and crispy cracklin’ is heaped onto a fresh roll with your choice of one of their amazing sauces. It’s not only delicious, it’s cheap! Don’t go there too late in the day because they close up as soon as the day’s pork is sold out.
It’s coming… the Edinburgh International Festival – July 2023
We can’t believe how fast this year has gone by! The city’s most famous festival kicks off on August 4th and will definitely be one to remember. The new director, Nicola Benedetti will want to make her mark and that means more fun and entertainment for all of us. Dance, plays, concerts, and even fringe performances from all over the world will take part. Many of the performances are free so check out the calendar and highlights right on their website. Performances by the popular Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo (below) will also be included as usual. For the best trip ever, be sure to grab our Clued In Edinburgh book today.
Local events to keep you busy – June 2023
Edinburgh is fabulous in June and the longer days of sunlight (4:30am to 10pm!) means there’s plenty of time to take in some awesome local events. On Saturday mornings you’ll find award-winning farmer’s markets at both the Castle Terrace and Grassmarket Square, or if you’re feeling creative, reserve a spot at the handbag-making workshop where you get to pick the tweed, leather, and other materials yourself. Then there’s our favorite, the new two-hour Cheese Crawl that actually includes wine. So fun!
In Focus: Dishoom Edinburgh – February 2023
When other websites are touting where to eat on Valentine’s Day, we’ve opted to make a February shout-out to a relative newcomer in Edinburgh, the super tasty Dishoom restaurant. (And it’s great for any night of the year!) Our Clued In London readers already know how much we admire their incredible “Bombay-style” cuisine, especially their scrumptious breakfast fare. We were so happy to find that there was one now in Edinburgh, and very centrally located too. You’ll find it along a mini-restaurant-row directly across from the Melville Monument and a stone’s throw from Waverley train station. Try the Chicken Ruby or the Gunpowder Potatoes… or whatever sounds good to you because it’s all noteworthy. And they serve the best Chai tea we’ve ever had. Info about their reservations policy is right on their website.
Pastry obsession solved – Edinburgh – January 2023
There’s nothing that can fill a cold, empty feeling in the tummy like pastry… really good pastry. It’s true that our local obsession with it switches around depending on the season, but right now it lies firmly with Patisserie Valerie at 152 Rose Street. This quaint pedestrian walkway seems the perfect place for a pastry shop but if you want to patronize a larger spot with more seating, rest easy; Valerie has another location right on the Royal Mile near the North Bridge. (If this all sound confusing then let us reassure you that it all makes sense when you’re there.) Their scones are tender and tasty and their cakes and French pastries are to die for! Open daily from 9am.
The truth about Christmas Day in Edinburgh – December 2022
If you had the good taste to choose Scotland for your Christmas holiday then you might be wondering how to spend your time on Sunday, December 25 when all of the city’s sights and restaurants will be closed in observance of Christmas Day. These folks are really into Christmas and will spend it at home with their loved ones. The few dining rooms that will be open (at various Edinburgh hotels) are probably booked up by now. That means you’ll need to plan ahead…
1) If you’re staying in a hotel, buy some lovely sandwiches or pulled pork at Oink the night before, along with some sweet treats and beverages because there’s a good chance that it will be your meal. 2) If you’re staying in an apartment rental, go to the grocery store, cheese shop, and butcher in the days before the holiday and get ready to prepare an at-home feast. 3) In the old town, St. Giles Cathedral will have a morning service at 11am but go early to get a seat. 4) If you have a rental car, go for a drive out to the famed Rosslyn Chapel or the seaside at the Firth of Forth and revel in having the roads all to yourself. 5) If no vehicle is at your disposal then bundle up and go for a stroll though the charming Dean’s Village and see the supposedly magical Water of Leith for yourself. 6) Stay out and about after the early sunset too; slowly but surely other folks will begin to fill the streets. Merry Christmas!
Where to enjoy an amazing holiday meal- November 2022
We love a festive meal and in Edinburgh that means the Rhubarb Restaurant at the Prestonfield House Inn. Their special three-course menu will be offered from December 1 through January 3 but must be booked as soon as possible while tables are still available. Note that this amazing mansion-hotel is only a ten minute taxi ride from the old town. Here are just a few of the many choices being offered for the Christmas season and Hogmanay this year:
White onion velouté, braised ox cheek, and cheddar toast rarebit with beer-pickled shallot – Pheasant with streaky bacon and sage, cranberries, herb-crusted parsnip and brown butter mash – Warm Christmas pudding, caramelized orange sauce and homemade spiced rum ice cream
Important update – September 2022
The most Scottish of all the restaurants in Edinburgh, Pibroch, has sadly closed its doors. Our recommendation for it in the “Feasting” chapter of Clued In Edinburgh has been removed as of the September edition. Those readers with a previous copy of our Edinburgh guide, please take note of this unfortunate change.
Clued In Travel Books 2026 